This focus on listening to the sounds of the street is similar to that of the late Virgil Abloh (who also founded Off-White), says Leanne Sinclair-Phillips, founder and director of creative strategy at FRM Creative. “Pharrell comes from a music background. He’s a musician and a producer, so he understands how sound travels on a global scale,” adds Sinclair-Phillips. “It’s smart for Louis Vuitton to say, ‘This is new and hot, and it’s going to be in our show.'”
Luxury brands have the opportunity to be early adopters of these emerging artists and grow alongside them, experts say. “When the payback happens in a few years and African artists become well-known and influential enough to have a significant economic impact, luxury brands will want to appear to have supported these artists from the beginning,” says Eniafe Momodu, a British-Nigerian fashion writer and creative consultant whose past clients include Casablanca and Grace Ladoja’s popular Nigerian streetwear festival, Homecoming.
With a growing number of aspirational consumers across the continent, partnering with African musicians is also an opportunity for luxury brands to cultivate that audience.
Choose the right partner
For young artists looking to break into the international market, getting endorsed by a major brand is a big achievement. Igo Enaowo, an associate at Mavin Records, which represents artists such as Star and Nigerian musician Rema, believes emerging artists need not be selective about partnering with brands, as it could be a springboard for future fashion collaborations. “Not every partnership has to be luxury-oriented,” he says.
Sinclair Phillips says management and agencies representing emerging artists need to ensure they remain visible to brands. There are also opportunities for musicians to build better, longer-term relationships with luxury brands, including attending their events, wearing custom pieces or their latest collections while on tour, and just generally showing support for the brand, she adds. While working with Nigerian musician Asake, she built relationships with Grace Wales Bonner, who made sure Asake wore a fresh-off-the-runway tuxedo to the Black Collective Awards, and Martine Rose, who designed Asake’s custom outfit for the Grammy Awards in February.