The condor appeared at an altitude of 5,000 meters. It was not real.
While ascending the frigid slopes of Huayna Potosi, the ninth highest mountain in the Bolivian Andes, I developed altitude sickness a few hundred meters from the high camp.
My optimism, determination, and finally the sugar high I got from eating a frozen Snickers bar had all but vanished into a combination of mild anxiety, muscle aches, and dizziness by the time I began to hallucinate images of a giant, geometric-winged bird gently landing on the icy rocks surrounding me.
With the help of some great local guides and a bit of luck, I was able to get down the mountain. I still do multi-day treks in the high altitudes of the Andes and Caucasus mountains, but I follow some strict rules to stay safe.
Altitude psychosis in the mountains
I first saw Mount Huayna Potosi, located near La Paz and El Alto in Bolivia, while traveling by boat across Lake Titicaca, the huge freshwater lake that connects Peru and Bolivia. I remember naively thinking, “I can climb it,” and setting off to reach the summit on my 40th birthday.
I hurried up the climb without adequate preparation or acclimatization, battling the common effects of altitude sickness – nausea, headache and fatigue – with a mixture of chilled coca leaf tea, water, acetaminophen and sugar.
I only realised I was getting ill until it was far too late. I started hallucinating, vomiting violently, climbing desperately to a high altitude campsite, my crampons slipping on packed ice, and fatigue and confusion setting in.
At Huayna Potosi Highlands Camp, the geodesic dome was surrounded by snow. Elizabeth Lavis
With the help of my amazing guide, I reached a high altitude camp and spent the night in an orange geodesic dome perched perilously on the east side of Potosi. I didn’t sleep a wink. Instead, I spent the whole night prying open the dome’s triangular door with a screwdriver, spectacularly vomiting on the rocks outside, and admiring the beauty of the stars from that height.
Danger Zone
Alpine psychosis typically occurs at altitudes above 7,000 meters, but can also affect hikers trekking at lower altitudes. Formerly known as mountain psychosis, it is a terrifying illness that manifests as intense hallucinations that disappear once you descend.
While altitude psychosis doesn’t necessarily occur at the same time as altitude sickness, my doctor surmised that my experience had a lot to do with not acclimatizing properly, overestimating my abilities, and minimizing the effects of altitude sickness by continually taking over-the-counter medications and natural remedies like coca tea.
Frontiers in Psychiatry points out that although cases of psychosis during exposure to high altitudes are frequently reported, they remain medically undiagnosed.
Safety at height
Without my guide, I would have been in big trouble. He quickly realised the seriousness of the situation and helped me carry my day pack the rest of the way, slowly climbing to the high camp. Once there, he gave me a spoonful of raw sugar and plenty of water, then descended with me at dawn.
I still love multi-day treks and mountain climbs, and just returned from a four-day trip in the high Caucasus mountains where I scrambled over rugged rock faces, forded glacier-fed rivers, and walked heel-to-toe 15 miles a day along steep, winding cow trails.
Mountains are majestic and therapeutic, but they also require respect, so I have new rules for staying mentally and physically safe at height and on extreme outdoor adventures.
The author recently went hiking in the High Caucasus Mountains in Svaneti, Georgia. Elizabeth Lavis
Proper acclimatization is the first rule. I like to spend at least 3-4 days adjusting to a new altitude. The first 1-2 days are quiet, and the 3rd-4th days are a short test hike. This allows me to assess how my body is functioning and adjusting at the new altitude. Also, a short, less strenuous hike gives me an idea of what to expect on a longer hike.
I also limit my over-the-counter medications to help me get through the first few days of headaches and fatigue while my body recovers. I drink coca tea to help tame the symptoms, but listening to my body helps me ensure it’s functioning optimally and is ready to hike.
Finally, I learned to be more humble. I was fit and prepared to climb Huayna Potosi, but I didn’t consider the mental and physical toll this mountain would take. Knowing your limits is difficult but essential. Realistically, I should have trained and acclimatized for Potosi for at least a few more months before taking my first steps to the east side.
Life is about extremes, which is why climbing a mountain is always a good idea. Climbing responsibly involves properly balancing your athletic ability, your body’s response to altitude, and keeping your teammates on board.
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