Proenza Schouler got an early crack at New York Fashion Week, presenting its Spring 2025 collection on Wednesday morning ahead of the official calendar.
“Nobody’s done anything yet, everybody’s fresh, it’s like back-to-school,” Jack McCollough said of the move, which puts the brand ahead of some of this week’s potential high-profile competitors, including Ralph Lauren’s lavish show in the Hamptons, Tommy Hilfiger’s ferry display and European visitors Alaïa and Totem.
Proenza will occupy the space in the New York Mercantile Building on Harrison Street, marking the first time a fashion show has been held in the former Grocery Exchange building, built circa 1884.
It was an intimate affair, with no celebrities in attendance except for Kamala Harris’s stylish stepdaughter, Ella Emhoff, setting the tone for a week that may be glamorous but is sure to also reflect the realities of a struggling luxury market.
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The shows were quiet, but the clothes were not, as designers steered clear of the ubiquitous trend of quiet luxury for something a little more glamorous.
“We’re not minimalists,” says Lázaro Hernández, noting that their last collection was as simple as possible.
But they are American sportswear designers, and this collection focuses on wearable pieces with artful cuts, craft, color, leather and prints that are the label’s defining selling points, and a nod to the preppy trend of the moment. “This season, we’re going back to what makes us who we are,” Hernandez said.
This is reflected in oversized but not over the top tailoring, like a sail-like striped shirtdress, a flattering nautical striped knit poncho, floaty frayed skirts, slightly loose downtown sailor pants, flowy trench jackets, and a pale lavender one-button blazer that hugs the waist gently over loose black pants.
According to CEO Kay Hong, the designers also expanded the options for event dressing, a specialty of Proenza. Among the easy-going pieces were a strapless gown with long fringe made from 300 yards of airy silk organza tubing, a technical knit top perforated with grommets and a car-wash fringe skirt, and a remix of their signature jersey goddess gown, with a playful fuchsia feather-embroidered miniskirt peeking out from under a glossy black coat.
In addition to fun, fringed, low-heeled T-sandals and sporty monogrammed sneakers, the designers collaborated with footwear brand Sorel to create Caribou mules and Chelsea boots, adding a rugged touch to an undeniably commercial collection.
Launch Gallery: Proenza Schouler Spring 2024 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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