Bethlehem, a small town in the occupied West Bank, has every reason to consider itself the Christmas capital, but it’s not feeling like one this year.
There are few visitors during typical peak hours. There are no cheerful street decorations or giant Christmas trees in front of the Church of the Nativity, built on the site where Jesus is said to have been born.
Public Christmas celebrations have been canceled for the second year in a row due to the war in Gaza. Palestinian Christians attend only religious ceremonies and family gatherings.
“This should be a time of joy and celebration,” said local Lutheran pastor Munsur Isaac. “But Bethlehem is a sad city in solidarity with our brothers in Gaza.”
His church’s nativity scene depicts the baby Jesus lying in a pile of rubble. Ahead of Christmas, a prayer service focused on the devastating situation in Gaza.
Isaac delivered a powerful sermon, saying, “I can’t believe it’s Christmas again and the genocide hasn’t stopped.” “Policymakers are happy that this situation continues. For them, the Palestinians are essential.”
Israel strongly denies accusations of genocide in the Gaza Strip, but judges at the United Nations Supreme Court have yet to rule on a case brought by South Africa alleging genocide.
Many of the Bethlehemite Christians I meet feel hopeless and wonder about the failure of other Christian communities around the world to speak out.
Close ties between members of the small Palestinian Christian community mean that many locals have family and friends in Gaza.
“My mother told me that what we watch on TV doesn’t capture even one percent of what’s going on,” said Dr. Youssef Khouli, a theologian from Gaza City.
His parents and sister are among hundreds of Christians who have spent much of the past 14 months living as refugees in two churches in Gaza.
“Like the entire Gaza Strip, they are facing starvation. Of course, because of the shelling, because of the drones flying overhead, they have little sleep and no medical care,” he said.
“We lost friends and relatives.”
In Gaza, more than 45,000 people have been killed in the war that began in response to Hamas’ attacks on southern Israel. The figures come from the Hamas-run Health Ministry, but are considered reliable by the United Nations and others. The attack on October 7, 2023 left about 1,200 people dead, including Israelis and some foreigners, and about 250 people taken hostage.
In tandem with the war, tensions rose in the West Bank. Israel has imposed new restrictions on the movement of Palestinians and canceled tens of thousands of permits for workers who were traveling to and from Jerusalem and Jewish settlements daily.
The economy is in dire straits, especially in Bethlehem, which relies heavily on tourism, which has almost completely stopped. The guides stand idly by the Church of the Nativity, feeding the pigeons.
“If there are tourists, everyone will work: hotels, transportation, accommodation,” says Abdullah, one of our guides. “But without tourists, the city of Bethlehem has no life.”
“I’m broke! I can’t do business! I’ve been at home for over a year,” cried Adnan Subah, a souvenir seller on Star Street.
“My son is a tour guide at a church. We’re at home, all the kids are left. No jobs, no business, no tourists.”
Many local Christian and Muslim families have immigrated in the past year. The constant threat of violence and the expansion of settlements in lands where Palestinians have long sought their own independent state have increased fear and anxiety about the future.
But community groups in Bethlehem are trying to change that by packing food parcels for people in need. There is no government aid here, and volunteers, including people from the diaspora, collect donations.
“As we all know, Christmas is a spirit of giving, love and joy, and we hope that through this parcel we can bring hope and joy to families in our community,” Palestine Lions Club president Wael Schall said.
We followed Wael as he made his first delivery to a woman living in a nearby apartment. Her husband is sick and unemployed. She gratefully opens the box of supplies she was given and pulls out an envelope containing cash.
She and Wael exchanged their customary holiday greetings, wishing each other a peaceful year.
“Mission accomplished!” Wael said to me as we departed.
“Spreading a little cheer this Christmas.”