How many hotels can claim to be as recognizable by their silhouette as Peter Pan? Jumeirah Burj Al Arab, Dubai’s final word in extravagant excess, can do just that.
Since its glass doors opened 25 years ago this week, this sail-shaped landmark has become inextricably linked to the emirate and a must-see for tourists. A visiting journalist famously described the hotel as the only seven-star hotel in the world, but that label has been inaccurate for many years. However, the Burj claims to be the most luxurious hotel in the world, and while I’m not one to actually test such claims, I was convinced once I visited.
Occupying a private man-made island and connected to the mainland by a dramatic narrow causeway, the hotel towers 321 meters above the turquoise Arabian Gulf. This is a marvel of architecture and engineering and remains one of the tallest hotels in the world. However, the Burj’s distinguishing feature is its unique and controversial decoration. Gold leaf is applied over lush blues, reds and purples, adorned with Swarovski crystals and more than 30 types of Statuario marble. From the lobby, which is flanked by huge aquariums on either side, climb up the glittering escalator. The effect is like Donald Trump meets Tutankhamun.
Subscribe this week
Escape from the echo chamber. Get the facts behind the news and analysis from multiple perspectives.
Subscribe and save
Sign up for this week’s free newsletter
From our morning news briefing to our weekly Good News newsletter, get the week’s best stories delivered straight to your inbox.
From our morning news briefing to our weekly Good News newsletter, get the week’s best stories delivered straight to your inbox.
The hotel is just a stone’s throw from Jumeirah’s private beachfront area, close enough to the airport (30 minutes) and all major landmarks, making it a very convenient place to hang up your sun hat. That being said, you may never want to leave.
room
Which room? The hotel has only two-story suites, 198 of them to be exact, and each suite has a dedicated staff of eight, with 24-hour butler and concierge service. Luxury duplex-like rooms with floor-to-ceiling windows offer breathtaking views. Even the smallest Deluxe Marina measures 170 square meters and comfortably accommodates up to 3 adults and 2 children. Children are given a teddy bear in a robe with their name on it. The view of the jade sea from your bed is breathtaking. The view of the ceiling and the amazingly clear mirror above the bed are perhaps not so great.
Each suite comes with Hermès toiletries, a powder room, a bathroom with Jacuzzi, nine different pillows, and wardrobe unpacking service, which I think would be useful for a large family. Everything from silk laundry bags to jewelry boxes are monogrammed in gold. Even the spare toilet roll came in its own royal blue velvet sock.
Room service is different when it is not served in the bedroom, but on another floor, down 22 marble steps, at a dining table with placemats and real silver cutlery. are different. The hotel name is also engraved on the butter.
Eating and drinking
Downstairs is the two Michelin-starred Mediterranean restaurant L’Olivo at Al Mahara (‘The Oyster’). Enjoy a six-course, seafood-filled menu that pays homage to Chef Andrea Migliacci’s grandmother and upbringing in Ischia. Leave room for the wonderful bread trolley, which comes with different olive oils for each choice. However, the food somewhat pales in comparison to the dramatic surroundings. The aquarium in the lobby holds nearly 1 million liters of water at the bottom and is home to more than 3,000 fish of 30 species, including a stingray, a 20-year-old moray eel, and two moray eels. Baby blackfin shark – glides mesmerizingly right in front of you as you eat.
Al Iwan is the place to go for Persian and Arabic food, or the hotel’s themed buffet nights, but judging by the red velvet cabaret-style curtains, you couldn’t swear it was authentic. If you prefer sweet to spicy, try patisserie outpost Les Desserts. Sample afternoon tea with a harpist and panoramic views at Sahn Al Dar, an all-day café located beneath the hotel’s atrium.
For breakfast, soak up the coastal vibe of blues, whites and pops of yellow at Bab Al Yam, with floor-to-ceiling windows overlooking the bay. We offer a wide range of breakfast menus, from European to Middle Eastern cuisine. Our a la carte menu has the best selection. Try shakshuka topped with feta, chives and pine nuts, or scrambled eggs on brioche with truffle béchamel and Comté cheese.
On the 27th floor is the Michelin-starred Al Muntaha (‘The Ultimate’), a fine-dining restaurant with a focus on French and Italian cuisine, located 200 meters above sea level. The view is great, but it might be better to go during the day to avoid reflections. Chef Saverio Sbaragali’s style is bold and decadent rather than delicate, but beautifully executed. The cheese trolley was a quirky highlight, but the standout dish was the calamari and osetra caviar starter. It has a base of squid tartare, a layer of Japanese barbecue-style squid, and is topped with caviar, champagne, and oyster sauce. Salty, fishy, and surprisingly chewy. The waiter said it deserved two Michelin stars. I agree.
Among the bars, the Skyview Lounge offers the best views and the finest mixology, the Gilt for small plates surrounded by art deco elegance, but my favorite is the gilt with the sunset glistening over the sea It was the UMA outdoor cocktail lounge during prime time. And the height of the glass towers in the distance.
Climb your golf buggy down the causeway a short distance to the coast and arrive at Somersalt Beach Club. It’s not quite as good as setting foot on a sandy beach, with violinists and DJs accompanying fresh Latin American-style seafood, but it’s probably as close as you’ll get to Dubai.
For even more pool fun, there are two outdoor swimming pools on a 10,000 square meter terrace that fans out from the base of the hotel. One is a saltwater infinity pool that almost drops you into the ocean, and the other is a freshwater pool with a swim-up bar. – 32 private air-conditioned cabanas with man-made sandy beach, plush daybeds, minibars and TVs. Enjoy a light lunch of Mediterranean, Spanish and Portuguese cuisine at SAL Beach Club.
spa
Tully’s stands out from other luxury hotel spas in two ways. Firstly, its location on the 18th floor, soaring 150 meters above sea level and bathed in natural light, gives it a grand feel. This place is a destination in itself. Secondly, decorations such as dramatic mosaics and candy-striped walls strongly urge you not to ignore it for pure relaxation.
Spanning two floors, it features separate indoor infinity pools for men and women, a sauna, steam room, plunge pool, Jacuzzi, and 14 luxurious treatment rooms with beautiful views. But despite its size and opening to day-trippers, it has a quiet, upscale feel. For those with a more energetic bent, there are women-only and mixed-gender gyms, as well as complimentary exercise classes, a yoga studio, and personal trainers.
For those of us who take our spa seriously, our bespoke treatments combine Arabian tradition with cutting-edge technology, modern wellness trends and the most exclusive products. The treatment menu is quite pricey and leans a bit too much towards ‘youth and beauty’ for my tastes, but there really is something for everyone. Fair warning: the mandated disposable underwear is tiny.
judgment
The question is not whether Jumeirah Burj Al Arab offers unimaginable levels of luxury, of course it does, but is it worth it? And who is it for? Is it? Answer: Not everyone. It’s neither chic nor elegant nor understated. It’s not particularly exclusive either. It’s a functioning tourist attraction, with some groups sneaking off tour buses to take photos in the lobby (and you should, too, if you’ve ever been to Dubai).
If you don’t like gold or flash, you should probably avoid it. But anyone who appreciates luxury will find themselves in a world of pleasure. This hotel makes no apologies. It revels in its outrageous decadence. Proudly flashy, full of warmth and humour, and surprisingly suitable for children. The staff are the kindest, most attentive people I have ever met. Its location is great. The enormity of its ambition is breathtaking. If I were to compare it to an animal, it would be the Seven Star Peacock. And if the place is decorated like a pharaoh’s tomb, this is the afterlife I would choose.