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What’s the topic? There are plenty of decent mid-range hotels in Scandinavia, but relatively few knockout five-star hotels. Former three-time Olympic gold medalist Sampa Rajnen wants to change that with Hotel Maria in Helsinki, an attempt to fill a gap in the Finnish capital’s high-end luxury market. Rajnen, once a specialist in Nordic combined events (a competition that includes cross-country skiing and ski jumping) and now a fund manager and developer, says both top-level sports and hotels are about “high goals, every detail”. It is argued that it is based on the idea that It’s in the right place and there are no compromises. ” Plans to attract high rollers from Russia may have fallen through due to the full-scale invasion of Ukraine, but the hotel is opening gradually throughout this year and expanding into four separate buildings.
Location, location, location: Located in the center of Helsinki, only a few hundred meters from the sea, the main train station and Senate Square, the hotel is located on a surprisingly quiet side street in Mariankatu in the Kruununhaka district . The main building has been used by the Finnish army since 1885 to house soldiers and snipers, and some suites have narrow windows that once looked out. Most of the Finnish capital’s attractions are within walking distance.
Check-in: The yellow porticoed façade is imposing, but as soon as you walk through the doorman, you’re immediately struck by a cool Scandinavian vibe. The reception is bright and has a trio of Art Deco chandeliers, conveying a sense of ice and snow, especially suited for a city that often experiences cold winds from the sea. The welcome is warmer than the decor, but equally Finnish in terms of efficiency. A few questions, a swipe of your credit card, and some low-key Finnish humor were all you needed to check in. A porter quickly carried my bag to my room.
Colors throughout the hotel are bright and subtle, with plenty of ivory and beige, courtesy of head designer Jana Sasko. Finns may be a typically humble people, but Rajnen’s three gold medals take pride of place in their cupboard. Brass and gold effects are abundant, including the marble floor inlays at the entrance and the curved reception desk. It’s clearly aiming for a luxurious feel, but it’s a calm type.
There are 117 bedrooms, over 38 of which are suites, again dominated by beige, light gray and marble. You can control the lights, sound system, and even the curtains using the incredibly intuitive iPad, but there are also manual switches.
what to do? If there’s one thing Finland does better than anywhere else, it’s saunas. The hotel’s spa features a sauna and steam room, as well as options for cooling off, including a compact plunge pool and an old-fashioned bucket with a chain pull. It took some courage, but I quickly got off to a good start to the day.
There is also a small pool for swimming, two heated pools, and a Jacuzzi. I was so relaxed that I didn’t even have time to use the gym or wellness studio, let alone the ballroom.
What about food? Maria’s main restaurant, Lilja, is very popular in the area, with a concept that combines Scandinavian ingredients with French-inspired haute cuisine. My meal suggested it was approaching the Michelin star standard that the team clearly aspires to, with the food being delicate, delicious and occasionally unusual. The latter was especially true of the persimmon starter, which was balanced with fresh ricotta, almond crunch, and a subtle anise taste. This was followed by decadent chicken confit and truffle potatoes.
Breakfast in the bright and airy dining room features delicious dishes such as Scandinavian kimchi, cold-smoked Lapland reindeer and Finnish cheese, as well as a la carte dishes such as classic avocado toast and egg royale. I am.
What about the other guests? The war in Ukraine not only took Russians off the Maria, but many who had hoped that by flying over Russia, the country’s flag carrier Finnair, would be able to reach Europe in a shorter flight time. of Asians (Moscow revoked their rights). As such, this hotel focuses on European and American guests. Mostly businessmen and wealthy tourists.
Damages: Double rooms from 350 euros including breakfast. Suites start from 529 euros and go up to 6,000 euros per night.
Richard Milne is the FT’s Nordic and Baltic bureau chief. He was a guest at Hotel Maria (hotelmaria.fi).
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