The concept of luxury in food has changed significantly. Foods once thought to be reserved for the wealthy, such as champagne, foie gras, and truffles, are becoming increasingly available. How did this change occur? What are the richest people currently consuming? And what is modern luxury food?
Historically, celebratory foods such as champagne, foie gras, and truffles were symbols of luxury. They have a high symbolic value and are often associated with sophisticated cuisine and special occasions such as Christmas or birthdays. Unlike personal luxuries such as watches or handbags, fine dining is inherently shared, creating moments of collective enjoyment, such as tasting fine wine with friends.
The evolving concept of luxury in food
Fine food is a relative and subjective concept that changes over time, geography, and social class. As Vincent Marcilhac states in his book “Le luxe alimentaire,” a product considered luxurious in one era can become commonplace in another. For example, in medieval Europe, sugar was a rare and expensive commodity, reserved for the wealthy. Similarly, lobster, now a luxury delicacy, was a low-cost food for the poor in 19th-century America until the advent of railroads transformed it into a popular luxury item.
Fine food remains a thriving sector in France. In 2021, gastronomy generated revenues of 49 billion euros, while wine and spirits accounted for 77 billion euros. The luxury food market continues to grow and is expected to reach €9 billion by 2023, with more than 5,300 specialty stores across the country and is expected to continue to grow.
Democratization through industrialization and distribution
In recent years, luxury food has undergone significant changes and become more accessible to the general public. This democratization was primarily driven by industrialization and the diversification of distribution channels, which reshaped the availability and affordability of these products.
The industrialization of food production has greatly expanded access to items traditionally considered luxuries. Mechanized production processes have enabled the mass production of products such as foie gras that historically required labor-intensive methods. This change dramatically increased production volumes and reduced both production and retail costs. As a result, foie gras has become more affordable and widely available, attracting a broader consumer base.
The way premium food reaches consumers has also evolved. Products such as truffles and caviar, once restricted to specialty stores, are now commonly found in mainstream retailers, including major chains such as Carrefour and discount stores such as Lidl. These products are also made available through online platforms and mail-order services, catering to entry-level customers through private and industrial brands.
This expanded distribution network plays a vital role in standardizing premium food products and making them available at more competitive prices. Currently, typical high-end foods such as champagne, foie gras, and smoked salmon are mainly distributed in supermarkets and large supermarkets.
Caviar shows this trend. Previously limited to an elite few, it has grown by 90% since the pandemic, and France has emerged as the world’s third-largest producer thanks to Siberian sturgeon farming. The challenge ahead lies in the further democratization of caviar, moving it from high-end grocery stores to everyday grocery stores.
scarcity and exclusivity
Despite the rise of democracy, haute cuisine has not lost its charm. For the wealthy, the difference now lies in scarcity and price. Consider caviar. Baeri caviar costs around 1,600 euros per kilogram, while almas caviar, a rare delicacy of albino beluga sturgeon, can cost more than 30,000 euros per kilogram. Similarly, the price of white truffles from Alba is 10 times higher than black truffles from Périgord, reaching up to 6,000 euros per kilogram. Champagne prices range from 15 euros in supermarkets to over 10,000 euros for a bottle of Dom Pérignon.
Another expression of luxury is the experiential aspect of enjoying high-quality local products in their place of origin. Drinking fine Burgundy wine in the vineyard, guided by the producer’s story, turns your meal into an unforgettable and moving experience. This “emotional luxury” emphasizes the value of authenticity.
Moreover, food luxury often takes the form of tasting high-quality local products in their place of origin. The credibility associated with these “localized” products increases their perceived value. For example, the experience is enhanced when you enjoy an exceptional Grand Cru of Burgundy while admiring the vineyards where the wine was produced, after a guided winery tour where you share their stories with the winemaker. That moment will be special. It will be unique, emotional, and rich in sensory details. This phenomenon can be called spiritual luxury.
In recent decades, rising middle-class living standards have democratized luxury to some extent. But for some people, luxury food continues to embody an exceptional, expensive, and often deeply emotional essence.
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