On a recent Thursday night, patrons at Verde, a popular Canton restaurant, spilled out and onto the sidewalk. A local pizza place was packed, families gathered around pizza, friends and loved ones chatted over wine and…City Councilman Zeke Cohen’s staff was having a dinner party?
The owners of Verde donated $1,000 to Cohen’s campaign for City Council speaker this year. There are plenty of bars and eateries that are deeply involved in Baltimore politics: Restaurateurs of all kinds have donated thousands of dollars to Democratic candidates this year, from a pit beef stand that gave $500 to the city’s meat-free mayor to the Penthouse Club (yes, they serve food, too) that gave $1,000 to outgoing City Council Speaker Nick Mosby.
And the money flows both ways: Campaign finance records show city and state politicians are spending thousands of dollars on food and drink during the 2024 election cycle, money that’s being used to feed hungry volunteers at Ekiben, to raise funds at a Peabody Heights brewery and to cover the costs of meet-ups at establishments like Cindy Lou’s Fish House and Cinghiale, where Baltimore’s kingmakers often dine.
Cohen’s campaign alone has spent more than $9,200 on volunteer meals so far this term, about a third of which went to DiPasquale of Brewers Hill, where the lawmaker also regularly holds luncheons.
“This is one of the best Italian delis in the country,” said Cohen (who has apparently chosen a side in the Baltimore Banner sub wars).
Atlas Restaurants has long been considered one of the biggest players in the intersection of local politics and food, thanks to the Smith family’s deep pockets and heavy-handed involvement in Baltimore politics. The company’s CEO, Alex Smith, donated hundreds of thousands of dollars this year to a super PAC supporting former Mayor Sheila Dixon’s campaign. His uncle, David Smith, owner of the Baltimore Sun and executive chairman of Sinclair Broadcast Group, also regularly donates maximum funds to politicians who promote his favorite causes.
But Atlas is just one part of the menu: Campaign finance records and interviews with Baltimore leaders make it clear that other eateries are just as involved in what goes on at City Hall.
It’s not uncommon for the city’s restaurateurs to be heavily involved in local government: Odette Ramos, a Democrat who was elected unopposed in the 14th Ward (and perhaps the only vegan on the council), said restaurants and bars often welcome the exposure and extra revenue, even if it becomes a political issue.
While she’s participated in fundraisers at restaurants, breweries and bars in other cities, Baltimore events play a big role in politics for one important reason: The city just doesn’t have many venues big enough to host events.
Despite running unopposed in both the primary and general elections, Ramos received a single donation this year from Tony Foreman, founder and co-owner of some of Baltimore’s finest restaurants, including the storied Charleston in Harbor East and power-lunch staple Johnny’s in Roeland Park. Foreman did not respond to a request for comment.
But Ramos said Foreman plans to open a different concept called “The Duchess” in her neighborhood, at the corner of Rowland Avenue and 36th Street in Hampden.
“They could go anywhere, but they’re here,” Ramos said of Foreman and his former partner, restaurateur Cindy Wolf, “and that’s true for all of our restaurants.”
But when Ramos chooses to have his own power lunch, he can be found at the Gertrude at the Baltimore Museum of Art, the left-leaning policy expert said.
She hasn’t held a fundraiser there yet, “but I would love to,” she said.
When asked about his top choices for business lunches or happy hour drinks, Ramos, in true politician fashion, kept his cards close to his chest.
“I hesitate to say I have a favorite restaurant because I represent so many,” she said, “so I’m not going to.”
Where Ramos doesn’t play favorites, some politicians won’t even agree to talk about their food preferences.
Maryland Comptroller Brooke Lierman, a known foodie, has received donations from Baltimore staples such as Pappas Restaurant & Bar, Jimmy’s Seafood and the century-old Italian deli Trinacria Foods. Since 2023, she’s received at least $2,000 from THB Bagelie & Deli, a county-based breakfast chain that’s been slowly expanding into Baltimore. Alma Cocina Latina catered one fundraiser, and Guilford Hall Brewery provided beer at another. But her staff chose not to be interviewed after The Banner asked who else they would speak to for this story.
Other politicians are less reserved about their preferences. Knowing that Mayor Brandon Scott loves Coco’s Pub in Arcadia is like knowing that JO No. 2 is the best condiment for crab. Coco’s didn’t donate to Scott’s campaign, but Chaps Pit Beef did, which is a bit odd considering Scott became a fish eater eight years ago.
“When we had pit beef, we had it at Chaps,” he said.
“I represented Chaps,” he added, “Chaps has the fish.” A representative for Chaps declined to comment for this article.
Scott also likes the shrimp at Ni Hao in Canton (“Oh my goodness, they’re so good”) and often has a celebratory crab meal at nearby Captain James after the council approves the annual budget.
“It’s the only place you’ll see the mayor eating crabs,” Scott said.
Perhaps no politician in the city, or even the entire state, loves restaurants more than Cohen, the soon-to-be City Council speaker who called Baltimore “the most underrated restaurant city in the country.” And his campaign finances are a testament to the depth of his love: Records show that more than $18,000 of his campaign funds so far this year have been spent or received from local restaurants and bars.
Like Ramos, Cohen won’t pick favorites, but it’s not because he’s playing politics: He said he really can’t decide.
Verde for pizza (he loves the pistachio and sausage), Charleston for special occasions, and Little Donna’s are everyone’s “it” restaurants right now. Peter’s Inn in Fells Point has the best steaks and salads, and Darker Than Blue downtown is his soul food staple. And Malta, an upscale modern Italian restaurant in Butcher’s Hill, also receives rave reviews from Cohen.
“They make incredibly creative, beautiful food,” he said, adding that he’s there for the ambiance.
“It doesn’t feel pretentious or highbrow, but it does feel kind of hip when you’re in there,” Cohen says. That might have something to do with the crowd that attracts political celebrities: “You see journalists, you see local businessmen,” Cohen says. “And you see politicians.”
Restaurateurs also like Cohen. DiPasquale’s owner Joe DiPasquale says he appreciates the business Cohen brings and always asks DiPasquale when he needs help with something. Verde owner Ed Bosco says he’s long been frustrated by what he sees as City Hall getting in the way of small businesses, whether it’s onerous parking restrictions or onerous permitting processes.
“I think the city of Baltimore should do more to support small businesses and say, ‘How can we help you?'” Bosco said, “It’s a catalyst for restaurants to get involved and be an advocate for small businesses. For Verde, that was Zeke.”
Pizza places weren’t the only businesses in Cohen’s district that donated to his campaign. McGurk’s Pub & Grill in Federal Hill gave $1,000. The organizations that run Blue Agave Mexican Food and Nola Seafood & Spirits also gave $1,000. Pat Karzai, owner of The Helmand, a long-established restaurant in Mount Vernon, gave $500.
Perhaps the most talked-about donation to Cohen came from Clavel’s owners Lane Harlan and Matthew Pierce, who both gave $250. Cohen said Clavel, one of the city’s most popular spots, is a taqueria and mezcaleria that does things “smart and creative” that other places don’t.
Harlan, who also owns the bars WC Harlan, Fadensonen and Coral Whig, said she and her husband don’t usually give political donations. The donation to Cohen came at the urging of a friend who admired Cohen’s vision for the city. Harlan has never met Cohen, but there’s one politician she’d like to meet and maybe even have dinner with.
“She’s lovely,” Harlan said of Ramos. “I’d love to have lunch with her one day!”