In this week’s fashion headlines, the FW25 season arrives with the debut of new players and the return of familiar faces, luxury stocks rise after strong results, brands announce new chapters and new diffusion lines are introduced. Ta.
MM6 Maison Margiela made its long-awaited return to the Pitti Uomo stage as Kenzo announced details of its upcoming presentations and CFDA unveiled its NYFW calendar. Brands continue to further strengthen their customer base in the Asia-Pacific region, with Dior presenting a pre-fall presentation in Kyoto and Levi’s launching a Japan-exclusive Blue Tab line. Richemont’s holiday sales boosted its stock price and that of rivals LVMH and Hermès, pointing to a healthy outlook for 2025. Finally, Proenza Schouler is searching for a new artistic director following the announcement of the impending departure of its founding design duo.
At Hypebeast, we round up the week’s top fashion stories to help you stay on top of the latest trends in the industry.
MM6 Maison Margiela presents FW25 at Pitti Uomo 107
On Wednesday evening, Florence’s historic Gardens of Orticortura were transformed into a sparkling stage for MM6 Maison Margiela’s FW25 presentation at Pitti Uomo 107. The botanical garden and antique conservatory were decorated in all-white, a reference to Maison Martin Margiela’s famous 2006 “Whiteout”. ” Show me.
Models circled the glass structure in sophisticated tailored numbers featuring sensual androgynous features. Highlights include starry sky prints, faux mink, lurex, modular gloves, and Miles Davis-inspired pagoda shoulders. A standout among the looks was the aqua suit, which featured a bold pop of color. Combining sharp menswear silhouettes with sophisticated finishes, the collection served as a manifesto for a more complex masculinity that revels in fluidity.
Richemont sales soar 10%, triggering share price rises in LVMH and Hermès
French conglomerate Richemont said in a report on Thursday that sales rose 10% in the three months to the new year, a critical period for luxury goods performance. After a rocky end to 2024 that put most luxury brands on high alert, this positive news is a sign that the luxury goods market may be on the mend again.
According to Business of Fashion, the U.S. and European markets boosted the economy with purchases focused on fine jewelry from brands such as Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, offsetting weaker general watch sales. It is said that he did. Results reportedly exceeded analysts’ expectations, although sales continued to decline in Asia, particularly China.
The news spread jubilation across the luxury goods sector, with Richemont’s share price rising 18%, top conglomerate LVMH up nearly 9% and Hermès International up 6%.
Dior presents pre-fall show at ancient Kyoto gardens
Resuming the touring runway strategy that took the French house to Seoul, Mumbai and New York, Dior has announced that its pre-fall 2025 runway show will be held in Kyoto, Japan. According to WWD, the show will be held on April 15th at the ancient temple Toji Temple and Garden in Kyoto. Registered as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1994, this historic temple was built in 796 and serves as one of the two “guardian temples” that protect Toji. Former capital.
In a statement to WWD, the brand said the show was a “homage to the passion for this fascinating country cultivated by Christian Dior and his successors,” and “a combination of tradition and innovation.” “It reflects a new chapter in fusion.”
CFDA releases New York Fashion Week FW25 calendar
The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) has released its preliminary New York Fashion Week calendar for February, featuring more than 54 runway shows and designer presentations for the Fall/Winter 2025 season.
The program, which will run from Thursday, Feb. 6 to Tuesday, Feb. 11, includes Ana Sui, Carolina Herrera, Christian Siriano, Coach, Collina Strada, Diotima, Eckhaus Latta, Elena Velez, Kite, Lafayette 148, and Laquan Smith. , lures and other labels. , Sandy Liang, Sergio Hudson, Todd Snyder, Tory Burch, Zankov, and more.
Additionally, Christopher John Rogers, Altuzarra, Calvin Klein Collection by Veronic Leoni, Fforme, and Theory will appear on the calendar after the skipped season. The highly anticipated Thom Browne Show concludes the week with its final runway presentation on the evening of February 11th.
Kenzo to hold men’s-focused show in January, separate women’s show in March
Kenzo announced a change in its presentation style to focus solely on menswear at its Paris show on January 25th. Citing the need to refine its women’s offerings, under artistic director Nigo, the brand will debut its Fall/Winter 2025 women’s show during Paris Women’s Fashion Week in March. The move marks a bold new direction for Kenzo’s women’s line, supported by a newly formed creative team in collaboration with NIGO.
The change comes after three years of creative growth under NIGO’s leadership, which injected a modern energy into the brand while respecting its Japanese heritage. Nigo, known for his founding label A Bathing Ape, is Kenzo’s first Japanese artistic director since 1999, when the company’s founding designer stepped down.
Levi’s launches sophisticated new denim line “Blue Tab”
Levi’s is launching a new line of luxury denim staples called Blue Tab. The luxurious and sophisticated design marks the new experimental model for the Orange Tab line, showcasing pieces inspired by the brand’s most iconic styles. Incorporating premium materials such as chambray, selvedge denim and knapped denim, the line marries modern textiles with Levi’s workwear design language. The collection includes items such as the Mark Ruth Jacket, Fishtail Parka, Blue Tab™ Type I Jacket, Chambray Work Jacket and Heavyweight T-Shirt.
The brand will be officially launched in Japan on January 31st.
Proenza Schouler founders Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez exit the brand
After 22 years as Proenza Schouler’s founding designers, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez will step down as creative directors effective January 31st. The two will remain minority owners and help CEO Sheila Sveik Snyder shape the brand’s next steps. company officer.
Hernandez said in a statement that he values ”risk-taking and a sense of adventure” and is ready to take on new opportunities. McCollough agreed, stressing that the timing of the decision was carefully considered.
Known for infusing their New York-based brands with European timelessness, the designers have been linked to major fashion houses in the past, but their next steps have yet to be revealed. . Their departures have fueled speculation that he will replace Jonathan Anderson at Loewe, with Anderson rumored to be moving to Dior, although no official announcement has been made.
