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Atmosphere: A luxurious new retreat near Komodo National Park that tells a rich cultural story
Location: Labuan Bajo, Flores Island, Indonesia
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From $510 | Book now
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Afar’s take
I’ve been to Bali before, but I completely skipped it on my recent trip to Indonesia. Instead, I visited a fishing village called Labuan Bajo on Flores Island, less than an hour’s flight from Denpasar. This fishing village is one of the least visited of the 17,000 islands that make up the country’s vast archipelago. Why I came here: Turktana, a Luxury Collection Resort, is a Marriott hotel that brought attention to Flores Island, home to the famous Komodo dragon, when it opened in May 2024.
The hotel will be the first property by a major hospitality company in Labuan Bajo. Turktana is also a kind of guide. Improved air access to Komodo International Airport and expanded accommodation options will soon put Flores on the map for more travelers. The airport will receive its first international flights in September 2024, and several new hotels are being developed nearby. (It seems that the St. Regis is also under construction.)
Yes, on Leros, I could wax poetic about the melt-in-your-mouth grilled local fish served with aromatic sambal. Or talk about the luxury of swimming in both an Olympic-sized lap pool and a separate resort-style pool with a swim-up bar. Or describe in vivid detail the vibrant pumpkin-colored sunsets every night just outside my overwater villa.
But while that was all impressive, what made me fall in love with Turktana was how well the destination’s history, culture, and indigenous traditions were integrated. This is not a luxury property for luxury. This is a truly immersive resort. Together, these elements have elevated the hotel from very good to truly great.
In the local language of the indigenous Manggarai people, Turktana means “green land” and refers to the lush farms in the hills of Flores Island. Staying on-site means immersing yourself in Manggarai tradition. These experiences began when the staff greeted me with a welcoming ceremony at check-in and placed a handmade bracelet on my wrist. Later, during my stay, I watched a Khasi performance, a ritual whip fight between two Manggarais, and a war dance. Both are key elements of Manggarai’s identity. These are two examples of cultural storytelling that feels naturally integrated into all of the resort’s programming, from activities and design to food and drink.
Who is it for?
For travelers seeking understated luxury through the lens of rich culture, local customs, and outdoor exploration, Turktana is a home away from home.
This includes intrepid solo travelers, romance-seeking couples, and globe-trotting families. An on-site kids club caters for little adventurers who want to skip the island hopping and adult activities.
The area around Takutana is far from developed. We’re talking about an area that started catering to tourists only a few years ago. (The only major chain store in Labuan Bajo is one Starbucks.) So Turktana may not be for those who want a vibrant nightlife and amenities on every corner.
But Labuan Bajo’s relatively quirky atmosphere is part of its charm. It’s not a bustling tourist haven like Bali’s Seminyak or Kuta, at least not yet. Although Labuan Bajo’s main pier is busy with island-hopping day trippers, the town retains its idyllic charm. Ocean enthusiasts will appreciate the many opportunities for snorkeling and scuba diving near the property.
place
For centuries, the area that later became known as Labuan Bajo was a sleepy village inhabited by the nomadic sea-based Bajo people and the land-dwelling Manggarai people. These two groups coexisted and traded goods with each other. But in recent years, this town of 7,000 people has become a jumping off point for day trips to Komodo National Park and surrounding islands. The Indonesian government has also invested heavily in the town’s infrastructure, building a new airport, pier and roads.
Turktana is not in the middle of nowhere, but it’s also not the easiest place to get to. Komodo International Airport is just a 10-minute drive from the hotel’s main gate. Travelers typically arrive by air from Jakarta or Denpasar. There are no direct flights to either destination from the United States. Flights from North America to Turktana require at least two connections.
But for those like me who come by boat on a charter from a nearby island, it’s just a short drive from Labuan Bajo’s main port. Alternatively, you can berth within the grounds of the Takutana pier.
What made me fall in love with Turktana was how well the city integrates the destination’s history, culture, and indigenous traditions.
room
Among Turktana’s 70 junior suites and villas, the seven overwater sea villas stand out. These are the most luxurious parts of the resort and can even dwarf the bungalows of the Maldives and French Polynesia.
While certainly a splurge, and not eligible for Marriott point redemptions or upgrades, the 2,000-square-foot floating property features expansive indoor and outdoor amenities with floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors. I am. The villa’s distinctive design borrows from the original, from the interior lanterns that mimic those used by villagers to the ornate hand-woven tapestries draped over the beds that showcase Labuan Bajo’s vibrant underwater world. pays homage to the inhabitants of the land.
The sunsets here are phenomenal. I spent every evening lounging on my private deck, then headed to Maiga, a lively and lively floating cocktail bar, for a refreshing sunset.
The 45 junior suites are located in Tactana’s main building and are all quite spacious at 700 square feet. There are 18 other villas on the 40-acre property. Although it lacks ocean views, a separate plunge pool provides plenty of privacy.
food and drink
There are three unique restaurants (Leros, Umasa, and Taba), poolside dining options, a floating bar (Maiga!), a lobby lounge, and a coffee shop with an on-site roaster. This is impressive considering the hotel only has 70 rooms (although non-guests can eat and drink here as well).
Leros, an all-day casual dining restaurant, serves both Indonesian cuisine and classic international dishes such as nasi goreng and cutlet sandwich. Umasa is located a little higher up and serves more traditional Indonesian food family style. These include decadent Flores Strait lobster with sambal lua and sautéed cassava. Finally, the only dining venue not influenced by Indonesian influences, Taba is a Japanese robata-style restaurant that uses all local ingredients with the exception of a few imported premium meats.
There’s also a wider variety of non-alcoholic drink options than you might expect, from naturally fermented kombucha to mocktails to zero-proof wine. My favorite drink was jamu. This is a traditional Indonesian drink that contains turmeric, ginger, and pandan leaves and works as a natural immunity booster. Turktana offers three types of refreshing jamu made by local producers in Bali.
staff and service
Many of the staff have been drawn from luxury hotels in Bali and Jakarta, so the high level of hospitality and care is not surprising.
Each villa comes with a private butler on demand, while Junior Suite guests share one of several rooms. Service was anticipatory, not reactionary. For example, I got a visible sunburn from spending too much time in the sun, and my butler accidentally dropped some fresh aloe from the spa. Additionally, although many of the Indonesian staff are not locals to Flores, they know how to get around the island (or at least know who to talk to).
Tatawa Besar is a popular sandbar visited by boats carrying tourists at low tide and is usually crowded on weekend afternoons. But during my island hopping tour, the guide had a trick to avoid other boats. Do the tour in reverse order and arrive at the sandbar well before noon.
accessibility
Although the entire resort is perched on a hill, the main building, which includes two restaurants, a gym, an Olympic-sized lap pool, and 35 junior suites, meets basic accessibility standards with wide hallways and an elevator.
Other facilities, including a spa, umasa, and resort-style pool, can be accessed by electric buggy. Only one room, the junior suite on the first floor (Room 110), meets US ADA standards.
spa and swimming
In addition to snorkeling and scuba diving in the ocean, Turktana has three separate pool areas. There is an Olympic-sized lap pool, a main resort pool with ocean views, and a smaller pool for children.
Although carefully cleaned every morning, the small rocky beach area at the base of the resort is a bit disappointing. However, that doesn’t particularly affect Tactana, as this area of Flores isn’t known for having great beaches.
What the hotel lacks in beach, it makes up for in the ability to explore nearby islands by boat from its private pier. These experiences can be booked privately and customized to include snorkeling, scuba, or trekking (or all three). Popular spots like Pink Beach, Manta Point, and Kanawha Island are also part of the set itinerary, but you can also stop at smaller islands with fewer other tourists.
I enjoyed a decadent three-hour signature treatment at Deer Spa, which has six treatment rooms inspired by the region’s mystical caves. My experience included a welcome foot ritual followed by skin brushing and an exfoliating coffee scrub made with local beans. Afterwards, a full body wrap with cooling marine algae and fresh mint soothed my (severely tanned) skin. The service ended with an intensive massage.