A vintage expert with 20 years of experience says there are five telltale signs of a fake designer bag. She said that luxury handbags such as Gucci, Hermès and Louis Vuitton have defining characteristics. From smell to hardware, here’s what to look for then. To make your next expensive purchase.
This essay is based on a conversation with Koyaana Redstar, Head of Luxury Purchasing at Luxe Du Jour, an online luxury boutique for vintage designer handbags. Edited for length and clarity.
I started in the resale industry at the very young age of 13 by selling my mom’s old Kate Spade handbag on eBay.
After my first sale, I was hooked. There was just something about the speed of sales and the fact that they liquidated so quickly.
From that moment on, I thought, “What else can I sell?”
I have worked at Rebag, The RealReal, and other vintage consignment stores and have 20 years of experience in the resale industry. I’ve learned strategies that help me identify specific aspects of a luxury bag, from its model to its composition, just by looking at it.
However, even if you’re new to designer bags, there are some things you can check to determine if a bag you see at a vintage store is authentic.
symmetry
Overall, look for symmetry.
Luxury brands take time to develop their products. For example, Chanel bags should have quilting in the center. Look in your back pocket. Align the quilting with the position of the bag where it is sewn.
Next, look at the front flap. The quilting should now be aligned on the front. If so, that’s a good indicator of authenticity.
Gucci, for example, spends time aligning its patterns, which are usually centered. The same goes for Louis Vuitton.
So look for that adjustment. Don’t worry about it being off-center.
hardware
You need to ask yourself if your hardware has the right weight. Does the bag make a good noise when opening/closing or using the zipper?
Stop starting the super fake stories. However, in most cases you won’t find good hardware sound in fakes. Metal tends to be noisy and feel cheap, thin, and hollow.
In a real piece, you move the hardware around and you think, “Oh, this feels nice. It feels luxurious. This is going to last a while, so I feel like I’m investing in this piece.” .
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odor
I know this is weird, but this is what I do to authenticate my work.
I can smell the bag.
Does it smell like leather? In some cases, you can tell if it’s leather by smelling it.
However, if it smells too much like leather, it might not be the real thing.
It depends on the brand. Take the Hermès Birkin, for example. The way this brand treats leather gives it a perfume-like scent, just like the luxurious interior of a luxury car.
But when you smell your bag, it’s not good if it smells like you’re in a boot shop.
For example, if a vintage Louis Vuitton item smells like Crayola crayons, there’s a good chance it’s real – no joke. Some old Louis Vuittons smell like a Crayola box when they get old.
finishing
Determining whether a luxury bag is authentic can ultimately come down to the details. Because you have to see the finish.
Does it feel cheap and light, or is it a luxurious fabric that looks like someone took the time to make it properly? Are the seams clean? Doesn’t the engraving on the metal fittings look flimsy and sloppily put together?
If you have a Fendi Baguette bag, does the fabric or leather look luxurious? Doesn’t it feel heavy and awkward? Does it feel like it’s tightly woven?
Details go a long way.
Phillips screw
And finally, screws are one of the biggest perks for luxury bags like Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Hermès, Fendi, and Gucci.
Usually they are flatheads, so you have to be careful. That’s proof that you can spot it from a mile away.
If you find a Phillips screw somewhere in your bag, just say, “No, no, thank you. That’s it. Goodbye.”