Milan Fashion Week saw Dolce & Gabbana channel old Hollywood glamour in their Spring 2024 show, paying tribute to cinema’s iconic blondes—Marilyn Monroe, Monica Vitti, and Marlene Dietrich. The designers, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana, have been reflecting on the changing mood of the fashion industry. Dolce remarked, “Fashion is a serious business—I know—but maybe now it’s too serious.” In response, the duo offered a collection full of fantasy, nostalgia, and high drama, hoping to inject a sense of fun back into fashion. With platinum wigs, pin-up dresses, and the provocative return of the bullet bra, the show played like a love letter to a bygone era when fashion was less about function and more about spectacle.
The collection leaned heavily into cinematic fantasy. The runway was transformed into a movie set, complete with a mirrored staircase reminiscent of old Hollywood glamour. Models descended the illuminated stairs in structured, corset-like dresses and tuxedos adorned with cone-shaped cups—an unmistakable reference to the infamous bullet bra, popularized by starlets in the 1950s and later revived by Madonna in the ’90s. The bras were often styled as lingerie peeking out from under classic trench coats or fitted dresses, while some were sewn directly into the structure of cocktail dresses and tuxedos. A black satin tuxedo with exaggerated cone cups, in particular, demonstrated the brand’s exceptional pattern-making skills, capturing both the technical precision and boldness of the look.
There were softer moments in the collection as well, offering a break from the hard-edged aesthetic of the bullet bras. A light pink sheath dress with long sleeves and a subtle bullet-bra bodice was inspired by a photo of a young, smiling Marilyn Monroe. It managed to balance the provocative with the demure, a delicate dance that Dolce & Gabbana have often mastered. Another standout was a strapless number in baby blue, capturing an ingénue spirit that contrasted the show’s more dramatic pieces. The lush florals, especially a red rose print on a white background, added a touch of femininity and romance to the otherwise structured and somewhat rigid collection.
While the homage to Hollywood’s glamorous past was visually stunning, the show left some attendees wondering about its relevance in today’s fashion landscape. Fashion has been increasingly moving towards comfort, inclusivity, and functionality. The structured, constricting nature of the bullet bras and tight corsets, while beautifully made, felt out of step with current trends, where fluidity, ease, and body positivity reign supreme. The modern fashion consumer is more concerned with how clothes feel and move, making it difficult to see how the rigid silhouettes of the collection would fit into a contemporary wardrobe.
Dolce & Gabbana’s reliance on hyper-structured pieces and nostalgic glamour raises questions about whether they are truly evolving with the times. The return of the bullet bra, while eye-catching, felt more like a museum piece than a forward-thinking trend. It’s true that the look has popped up on a few red carpets this year, but its broader appeal seems limited, especially in an era where inclusivity is at the forefront of fashion conversations. The bullet bra, with its exaggerated, almost unnatural shape, doesn’t exactly align with the body-positive movement that encourages women to embrace their natural form. In this way, the collection’s fixation on retro silhouettes felt like a step backward rather than a step forward.
Even the presence of Madonna in the audience—an undeniable icon of the bullet bra—had an air of nostalgia that bordered on repetitive. While it was a fitting nod to her 1990s revival of the look, her attendance highlighted a reliance on past triumphs rather than a bold exploration of new ideas. Madonna famously wore Jean Paul Gaultier’s cone bras during her Blond Ambition tour, and Dolce & Gabbana designed costumes for her Girlie Show tour in 1993. So while the connection is undeniable, it also underscores the designers’ penchant for looking backward. When Madonna greeted the designers after the show and reportedly said, “I want everything,” it felt like a scene out of fashion history rather than an interaction rooted in modern-day relevance.
As Dolce & Gabbana near their 40th anniversary, the show seemed to double as a reflection on their past success and a nostalgic celebration of the glamour and extravagance that has defined their brand. But while it was undeniably a spectacle—full of drama, beauty, and flawless execution—the collection also begged the question: Is looking to the past enough to stay relevant in today’s rapidly evolving fashion world? In an industry that’s increasingly focused on innovation, sustainability, and inclusivity, there is a risk that Dolce & Gabbana’s celebration of hyper-glamour and rigid aesthetics might miss the mark with a new generation of fashion consumers. Yes, blondes may have more fun, as the show’s premise suggested—but the real question is, will they have fun wearing this?
