OSTERIA OLIO (355 Oneta St., 762-316-1818): Is there still room for a fine-dining restaurant in Athens? Of course, why wouldn’t there be? Osteria Olio, a sleek new restaurant in the sleek new boutique hotel, Rivet House, is the first place I’ve ever valet-parked my car in my 28 years living in the city. I have no choice but to sneakily park around the corner and walk in, which almost seems silly considering the parking lot is right there. It used to be free for diners, but now it’s a $5 charge plus tip. Give credit where credit is due: the décor is as upscale as you’ll find anywhere in Athens, with a beautiful patio complete with curvaceous concrete banquettes, thick wooden planks partially screened in, and giant dried-flower arrangements hanging from the ceiling. It feels a bit like Atlanta, but not in a bad way. The atmosphere is somewhat conservative (aesthetically, not politically) but the ambience is very nice nonetheless.
The hospitality group, whose restaurateurs have been nominated for a James Beard Award, is professional in what they do. Not all of the staff are like that (unsurprising in a city never known for the quality of service), but the ones they do try. Meanwhile, the Madison dining room lovingly strives to recreate the Ritz-Carlton Buckhead restaurant, once Atlanta’s finest, while Osteria Olio is less obsessed with details. The staff are all kind and polite, though they may place their dessert fork to the right of the plate. Dining in the dining room usually requires reservations, but is smoother than dining in the lounge.
The bar program is well-managed, and the cocktail list changes seasonally, though many remain the same. The Grapefruit Grove (gin, sour grapefruit, sugar, mint) is no longer on offer, but it was delicate, simple, and drinkable. At brunch, the house Bloody Mary avoids the trap of over-creation that many restaurants in this price range fall into. Made with Sisters Sauce, a small-batch mix from Atlanta, it’s neither too sweet nor too bitter. The non-alcoholic offerings are also excellent, with the new Everything Nice making good use of fall-inspired spices while countering them with a touch of sourness.
Enough about the drinks, what about the food? Some of it is indeed very good, and attention to texture is clearly a specialty of this kitchen. The meatballs, served in slightly different forms on both the dinner and brunch menus, are spot on. They’re not your typical heavy, bland dish, but light enough to feel like they’re being swiped by a skilled dance floor performer. They’re some of the best food I had in Athens. Similarly, the ricotta fritters are essentially paper cones of mini donuts dusted with cinnamon sugar and served with berry jam and a mouthwatering toasty sorghum caramel. They basically deliver a Proust moment, reminiscent of the ones served out of the truck at Lakewood Antique Market as a child, but better. Again, lightness. They know exactly what to hit the palate.
Nothing tastes as good as these two dishes, and while their strength seems to lie more in their execution than in their boundary-pushing creativity, there are some truly wonderful things about them. Even if you’re vegetarian, or you’ve accidentally ordered a vegetarian meal, you’ll have a good meal at Osteria Olio. Among the pastas, the agnolotti di mais are little pouches stuffed with creamed corn and mascarpone, drizzled in a delicate brown butter sauce, but the whole thing is peppered with tiny, slightly pickled mushrooms, whose acidity counteracts the sweetness of the pasta filling. The grilled artichokes on the side (secondi served steakhouse style) only need a spicy breadcrumb to bring out the natural veggie goodness. The pizzas are good, too, and everything is delicious, even the cold ones straight from the fridge the next day, but the standard deviation of the dishes is low. At brunch, the new potato hash is served with salsa verde and pickled red onions, and the central ingredient is not forgotten. Meanwhile, the fish from the market is a failure. It’s such a simple recipe that it has to be done perfectly and if you don’t get the texture right (you don’t) it’s disappointing. The Italian chopped salad is adequate. The homemade focaccia is too tough and probably under-fermented. The fried mortadella sandwich is a good hangover food but could use a bit more punch.
The prices aren’t cheap – about the same as ZZ & Simone’s, but with a more formal atmosphere. Looking for an objectively upscale place for a special occasion? It fits the bill, and the odds of eating something really good aren’t bad either.
Osteria Olio is open for dinner daily from 5pm and for brunch on Saturdays and Sundays from 11am to 2:30pm.
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