Marni’s latest presentation at Milan Fashion Week captivated the fashion world with its bold and imaginative designs. Held today in the raw, industrial-chic setting of the Marni showroom on Viale Umbria, the show emphasized the brand’s dedication to stripping back external influences to focus on the pure essence of beauty, as described by Marni’s creative director, Francesco Risso, during a preview with WWD.
The venue, with its unadorned walls and minimal distractions, set the perfect stage for the collection. Live piano music, performed by Risso’s friend Dev Hynes and accompanied by Sharleen Chidiac and Adam Tendler, created a captivating soundtrack that heightened the show’s atmosphere. Models navigated through a space filled with scattered chairs, weaving a path that enhanced the collection’s dynamic and organic flow.
Risso’s collection unfolded in a dramatic crescendo, starting with sleek, monochromatic pants and knits, and evolving into oversized, boxy jackets with pronounced shoulders and voluminous skirts adorned with feather-like layers. The early simplicity of the designs gave way to richly detailed patterns, including hand-drawn florals on pouf skirts and exquisite, embroidered evening dresses where rhinestone roses seemed to bloom on cascading cotton. Some pieces featured literary pages and illustrations of Dante Alighieri, adding a layer of intellectual charm.
Drawing inspiration from the flower dresses of the 1950s and the bold suits of the 1980s, Risso’s collection also included eclectic hat designs, ranging from quirky sailor styles to extravagant creations fit for a high-profile race event. The show reflected Risso’s continued evolution and deepening assurance since his appointment at Marni in 2016, showcasing a refined and confident vision.
However, while the collection demonstrated Risso’s artistic prowess and his commitment to creating beauty, there was a noticeable sense of déjà vu. Despite the fresh execution, the core themes and inspirations felt somewhat familiar, echoing previous collections. Fashion enthusiasts and critics alike expressed a desire for more radical innovation, hoping for a break from recurring motifs and a glimpse into new creative directions. Marni’s fans eagerly await a future collection that might surprise with completely original concepts and uncharted inspirations.
